Tiffany Oliphant, Clinical Services Manager at Floratech described jojoba oil as a waxy ester emollient extracted from jojoba seeds and traditionally used in folk remedies for sunburn and dry skin. Hydrolysed jojoba esters are made by saponification of the oil with potassium hydroxide. They have a non-greasy feel, a global history of safe use and are extremely stable and sustainable. Floratech evaluated them in a 65% ethanol/35% water wet-wipe lotion with 1% glycerin, and in a fully aqueous lotion. The study used 12 healthy women with dry skin on the lower legs after a 3 day washout without any skin treatment. One application of the lotion to the skin was followed by Corneometer skin hydration readings every 30 mins for 4 hours. Wet Ones, Equate, Germ-X and the jojoba-free vehicle were controls. Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic jojoba-containing lotions performed better than the controls but the non-alcoholic jojoba lotions gave more than double the hydration levels of the best control, which was the jojoba-free vehicle! The non-alcoholic lotions were then tested by a 31 woman panel which showed a strong preference for the jojoba containing product. In a baby wipe formulation the jojoba increased barrier function and decreased erythema when compared with a bisabolol-containing control.
(from a paper given at the INDA WOW Conference, Chicago, June 2012)